If you’re looking for a road trip that’s weird, wonderful, and wildly scenic, the drive from Las Vegas to Reno along Nevada’s Free Range Art Highway is one to remember. This route is equal parts weird and stunning landscapes, full of quirky sculptures, ghost towns, and the kind of wide-open landscapes that make you feel tiny and free at the same time.
We did this trip as a family in a 30-foot RV, starting in Las Vegas and winding our way north through Beatty, Goldfield, Tonopah, and Hawthorne before looping up through Lake Tahoe. Whether you’re travelling in an RV or a car, this is one of those drives that’s all about the journey.
Leg 1: Las Vegas to Beatty
Distance: Around 290 km/180 miles
Las Vegas might seem like an odd place to start a family road trip (and Reno seems like an unlikely choice to end it), but they’re both surprisingly family-friendly outside of the casinos. We stayed one night at The Venetian (read our review here), where we were all mesmerised by the views of The Sphere, the enormous video-screen orb glowing through the night sky.
The Paradox Experience and Mat Franco’s magic show were big hits and a good laugh (as was dinner at the iconic Hard Rock Cafe) before we picked up the RV the next morning.
Once you’ve got your wheels, make a quick detour to Seven Magic Mountains, just a 30-minute drive south of the city – a pop-art installation of giant stacked neon boulders in the desert. It’s one of those “only in Nevada” stops that’s more impressive than it sounds.
From there, it’s a straight shot north to Beatty, a small desert cowboy town known for being the gateway to Death Valley National Park.
What to see and do in Beatty
The Goldwell Open Air Museum: Giant ghostly figures and abstract art installations rise out of the barren landscape, and it’s as strange as it is photogenic.
Rhyolite: Just down the road lies Rhyolite, one of Nevada’s most famous ghost towns. It’s one of the most photographed in the west and was once the epicentre of the Bullfrog Mining District. Worth a wander if you like crumbling buildings, photography, imagining what once was or simply need to stretch your legs. If the kids are getting restless in your RV, there is plenty of open space here to burn off some energy.
Death Valley Nut & Candy Company: Reportedly one of the largest candy stores in America. However, we didn’t think it was that big. You’ll be sure to find some sweet snacks for the Las Vegas to Reno road trip and if you’ve arrived around lunch time, there is “real” food here as well.
Where to stay in Beatty
RV Sites
Death Valley Inn & RV Park: The RV Park features 39 pull-through spaces with 50-amp hookups. Visitors can count on dump stations and showers with restrooms, all within walking distance of restaurants and cafes.
Beatty View RV & Tiny Home Resort: Located on the edge of town, this full hookup RV park is basic with friendly owners. The wild donkeys braying and the clear night skies are a bonus.
Hotels
Beatty View RV & Tiny Home Resort: Not just an RV Park, Beatty View offers some cute tiny homes with room enough to sleep a family.
Death Valley Inn & RV Park: Also not just an RV Park, this Inn also features over 60 clean and comfortable rooms with high-speed internet and satellite TV. Guests will also find a pool, Jacuzzi spa, a barbecue area and an on-site laundry area.
Stagecoach Hotel & Casino: Featuring a pool, jacuzzi and WiFi, Stagecoach is near shops and restaurants. For those who didn’t get enough of it in Las Vegas, you’ll also find a 24-hour casino.
Leg 2: Beatty to Tonopah via Goldfield
Distance: Around 150 km/95 miles
This stretch along the Las Vegas to Reno route is where Nevada’s eccentric streak really shines. In fact, I’m pretty sure this stretch is what earned it the title of ‘Freerange Art Highway’.
What to see and do in Goldfield and Tonopah
Goldfield Historic Cemetery: Spend a morning (or evening if you dare) exploring the Goldfield Cemetery, where tombstones tell the most peculiar stories. One local “died eating library paste” – not sure if this tombstone is a prank but either way, it makes for a good photo.
International Car Forest of the Last Church: Then comes one of my favourite stops before leaving Goldfield – the International Car Forest of the Last Church. Imagine a desert field full of cars and buses planted nose-first in the ground, each covered in graffiti art. It’s messy, surreal, and surprisingly beautiful. Also, it offers up plenty of space for the kids to run around and burn off some pent-up energy.
Gemfield: Just outside of town en route to Tonopah, you’ll find a turn off to Gemfield where you can fossick (or rockhound as it’s called here) for colourful chalcedony stones. You can grab a pick and bucket in town to dig them up if you’re keen, but many are on the surface just waiting to be picked up. There’s an honesty box system requesting a donation of $1 per pound, but don’t worry about trying to convert pounds in your head – there’s an imperial scale on site right next to the honesty box.
Clown Motel: Fast forward a 30-minute drive to Tonopah and you’ll come across the world-famous Clown Motel on the main drag. If you don’t stay here, you are still more than welcome to stop by the lobby and check out the thousands of clown figurines, many of which are kinda creepy. The motel features themed horror rooms and its location next to the Old Tonopah Cemetery certainly adds to the eerie vibe. Check it out on the reel below.
Tonopah History Mining Park: Spread over 100 acres, a visit to the mining park is both interesting and a chance to stretch your legs on a self-guided walking tour. Here you’ll find preserved and restored equipment, buildings, historic exhibits and a glimpse at one of Nevada’s most complete mineral displays.
Tonopah Stargazing Park: This park is a good spot to take in Nevada’s incredible night sky. And given the proximity to Area 51 (see the note below), who knows, maybe you might spot something interesting. The park is equipped with concrete pads, benches, and picnic tables. Coordinates are provided to dial in your telescope if you’ve got one and if it’s not dark enough for you, continue along the dirt road further away from the town lights.
Note:
Tonopah is the beginning/end of the Extra Terrerestrial Highway Road Trip, an iconic (albeit short) road trip for all the sci-buffs, cheesy photo stop lovers, those who loved the movie ‘Paul’, or families who simply love a good laugh. And yes, it does pass by the famous Area 51. No, you can’t enter. If you’ve got time, it worth doing this road trip after your Las Vegas to Reno road trip.
Where to stay in Goldfield and Tonopah
RV Sites
Goldfield RV Park, Goldfield: Located away from the highway, this RV park provides a peaceful location with views of the town, bluffs and the desert. There are 8 pull-through sites and two back-in sites, all boasting full hookup with electricity, water and sewer.
Tonopah Station RV Park, Tonopah: Tonopah Station RV Park has 20 RV spaces, 14 of which are pull-through with full hook-ups. Guests also have access to shaded sites, showers, bathrooms and a laundry. A 24-hour casino and cafe is on site.
Hotels
Clown Motel, Tonopah: Fancy a novelty stay in a themed horror room that may or may not be haunted. The world-famous Clown Motel has got you covered.
Belvada Hotel, Tonopah: A lovely old building that has been renovated beautifully while still retaining its old-world charm. Bonus points for the family-friendly restaurant onsite.
Tonopah Station, Tonopah: Not just a place to park your RV, Tonopah Station also has hotel rooms. Having an onsite restaurant is a big bonus and as mentioned earlier, there is a Casino area here too.
Leg 3: Tonopah to Hawthorne
Distance: Around 170 km/105 miles
Leaving Tonopah behind on your Las Vegas to Reno road trip, you’ll pass through sweeping desert plains and a somewhat desolate (but still beautiful) landscape. As you approach Hawthorne, don’t be surprised by the hundreds of bunker-like huts spread across the landscape. This is reportedly one of the world’s largest ammunition storage facilities.
What to see and do in Hawthorne (and on the way)
Candelaria Ghost Town: En route to Hawthorne along the 95, you’ll see a turn-off to Candelaria, another of Nevada’s photogenic ghost towns. Candelaria is a historic silver mining town that was founded in 1864, the same year Nevada officially became a state. Once a thriving town, today you can discover the original Wells Fargo building and stone mercantile shops, native stone-terraced hillsides, a historic cemetery and a handful of miners’ cabins.
Hawthorne Ordnance Museum: In town, stop by the Hawthorne Ordnance Museum, which houses one of the largest collections of decommissioned missiles, bombs, and military memorabilia. The caretakers are lovely, full of stories and history, and immensely proud of the fascinating collection. As an Australian (where we have a different gun culture), it’s a little sobering, but nothing a McFlurry at the McDonald’s down the road can’t fix!
Walker Lake: Take a breather at Walker Lake, a serene spot surrounded by mountains where you can picnic, swim (too cold when we visited), or camp by the water. It’s one of those quiet places where you realise just how big and empty Nevada can feel in the best possible way. If you haven’t yet spotted any wild horses or desert bighorn sheep, Walker Lake might just be the place to do so.
Where to stay in Hawthorne
RV
Whiskey Flats RV Park: A full-service RV Park with propane, full hookups, showers, laundry and a convenience store with ice.
Walker Lake: More suited to those who can go a night or two without hooking up, Walker Lake’s campgrounds are managed by Nevada’s Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Sportsman’s Beach is the most developed with picnic tables, RV pull-through sites, fire rings and pit toilets. The others are level, but offer almost no developed amenities.
Hotels
Hawthorne’s Best Inn: Offering clean, decent-sized rooms, a 24-hour front desk, WiFi and a free continental breakfast, this motel is good value for money.
Travelodge Hawthorne: Free WiFi, a heated seasonal pool, a local shuttle service and a variety of room options feature at the Travelodge Hawthorne. The El Capitan Casino is onsite, known for its old-school Vegas lights and modern slot machines.
Leg 4: Hawthorne to Lake Tahoe (via Silver Springs and Carson City)
Distance: Around 230 km/145 miles
From Hawthorne, continue north toward Silver Springs and Lake Tahoe. The scenery transforms as you climb into the Sierra Nevada mountains, with pine trees replacing desert shrubs and a crispness about the air. You’ll understand when you arrive why Lake Tahoe is often called one of the most beautiful lakes in the world.
Things to see and do at Lake Tahoe (and on the way)
Fort Churchill State Historic Park: At around 130 km/81 miles past Hawthorne and heading towards Silver Springs, you’ll see a turn off for the Fort Churchill State Historic Park. The ruins of the 1860s fort make for an interesting story stop, and it’s an easy walk to explore the crumbling adobe walls.
Carson Valley: Once you turn away from Silver Springs towards Carson City, you’ll eventually find yourself cruising alongside the Carson River in the Carson Valley. At around this point is where I excitedly announced to my family that we should pack up our lives in Australia and move to this very spot. Sadly, they weren’t as excited about the idea as I was. Either way, this is a great spot to pull over and find a track down to the river to stretch your legs.
Lake Tahoe: Lake Tahoe is breathtakingly beautiful and really needs its own article devoted to all the things you can do here. Stay tuned. Depending on the season, it’s popular for hiking, fun in the snow, water sports and more. Regardless of when you visit, make sure you jump on board the M.S. Dixie II for a paddle-wheeler cruise on the lake.
Where to stay at Lake Tahoe
RV
Zephyr Cove RV Park: Tucked among tall pines with views of the lake and snow-capped mountains beyond, it’s directly across the road from where the M.S. Dixie II Paddle-Wheeler boards and a restaurant that serves hot chocolate by a roaring fire. Full hook-up is available and most of the campsites have their own fire ring.
Hotels
Zephyr Cove Cabins: Zephyr Cove Resort also offers the comfort of a private cabin right on the lake. Ranging from studios to four-bedrooms, it’s hard not to be impressed with the location and cute factor.
In general, the accommodation options around Lake Tahoe are plentiful and it’s a top spot to linger for a few extra days.
Leg 5: Back on the road to Reno
Distance: Around 95 km/60 miles
Heading north again, the road to Reno winds past small towns like Yerington and Fallon, both worth brief stops. Fallon’s Oats Park Art Centre showcases local artists and visiting exhibitions, while Reno itself bursts with street murals and creative energy. The city has shaken off its old-school casino image and now feels like a cross between an arts hub and an adventure base.
Reno makes a surprisingly good family city for a short stay, and much like Las Vegas, this subject deserves its own article. Again, stay tuned. However, here are a few suggestions:
Things to see and do in Reno
Nevada Discovery Museum: For all things science, history, engineering and technology wrapped up in a fun package, pay a visit to the Nevada Discovery Museum. You’ll find it in the heart of downtown Reno.
Kimmie Candy: Book in for a free tour and see how all the goodies are made before stocking up for the journey home.
Need 2 Speed: All-electric high-performance go-karts imported from Italy, a blacklit mini golf course and immersive VR – it doesn’t get much more fun for families.
South 40: South 40 boasts food, an arcade, and entertainment all under the one roof. You’ll find over 50 games, including both classics and new as well as an indoor ‘outdoor’ area, with cornhole, axe throwing and bowling. Again, this is a winner for all ages.
Virginia City: This historic town, just 30 minutes southeast of the city, is like stepping back in time. Families can learn about this mining town that put Nevada on the map with the famous Comstock Lode silver mine by way of train rides, iconic landmarks and museums. If you’re not sick of candy shops yet, check out Barrels O’Candy shop.
Where to stay in Reno
Much like Las Vegas, the options are endless and if you’ve made it this far, you’ve earned a good meal and a comfy bed. Here you’ll find brand-name luxury like the Atlantis Casino Resort Spa, boutique hotels, as well as options for those on a smaller budget.
RV hire and road conditions in Nevada
We rented our RV from Cruise America in Las Vegas and grabbed the largest in the lot. While a 30ft RV might seem huge if you’re not used to it, you’ll find it’s often the smallest on Nevada’s roads. Local campgrounds are filled with massive American RVs and a result, the roads are wide and most (if not all) RV parks offer drive-through sites.
While driving on the right side of the road takes a bit of getting used to, the wide open highways and excellent road conditions make this a stress-free family road trip.
Final thoughts
Driving from Las Vegas to Reno along the Free Range Art Highway feels a bit like travelling through an open-air art exhibition curated by dreamers, miners, and eccentrics. It’s a trip full of contrasts. From bright neon and ghost towns to desert plains and alpine lakes, this road trip proves that Nevada is far more than the Las Vegas lights. Whether you’re road-tripping solo, as a couple, or with the kids in tow, this is a journey that will stick with you long after the dust has settled.
FAQ: Las Vegas to Reno Road Trip
Without stops and detours to Lake Tahoe, it takes around 7-8 hours, but this isn’t a fun way to do it. Many travellers spread it over several days or even a week, depending on how long they want to stay in each town.
Absolutely. Nevada is well set up for RV travel, with wide roads and fully equipped RV parks in each town. Just keep an eye on fuel to make sure you’ve got enough to reach the next town.
Spring and autumn offer the best weather. Summer can be brutally hot in the desert, while winter brings snow around Lake Tahoe and the northern towns.
Yes, though keep an eye on them around art installations and old mining areas. Many of the quirky stops are outdoors and open spaces, which makes them fun for families to explore.
For popular spots like Lake Tahoe or Tonopah, it’s worth reserving ahead, especially in peak travel months. Smaller towns like Beatty and Goldfield are usually fine for walk-ins.
Definitely. There are hotels and motels in each town. An RV just gives you fewer suitcases to unpack.
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