The Cook Islands
Which Island Should I Visit With My Family?
This article on the Cook Island first appeared in Issue 1 of Family Holiday Destinations digital magazine as ”Off the Beaten Path in the Cook Islands”.
The lagoons are luxe, there are no traffic lights and no buildings taller than a coconut tree (it’s the law). My favourite part? The resorts haven’t snapped up the stunning beaches!
The South Pacific is well known for being family-friendly and the Cook Islands are no exception. The people are welcoming, there is endless sunshine, year-round warm water, crystal clear calm lagoons and sandy beaches.
New Zealanders have been holidaying here for years. I was told by a local that the Cook Islands are to New Zealand what Fiji is to Australia. Well, I think Australian families should be let in on the secret too …
… The Cook Islands are amazing!
Whether your family likes to relax in luxury or prefers memorable experiences over 5-star, there is an island for every family in the Cook Islands.
Rarotonga
For Families Wanting a Bit of Everything
Rarotonga is the island where all international flights land. Despite being the most visited island in the Cooks, it’s not particularly busy. The main road circles the island in only 32km, so it’s virtually impossible to get lost.
Highlights of Rarotonga include the natural beauty of both the surrounding lagoon and mountainous interior, snorkelling, swimming, waterfalls, dune buggies, hiking, island nights and eating slow-cooked pork belly at the Muri night markets.
Surprisingly, the beaches still feel very much like a locals’ beach. One that you are welcome at regardless of your accommodation choice.
Just ask Timmy, one of the friendly locals at Aroa Beach. We met Timmy at the White House Apartments, a great family accommodation option on the ‘quiet’ side of the island. He lives next door in the White House Apartment and seems to particularly enjoy socialising on the beach.
I watched in amusement as he found some young women relaxing in the sun, making himself at home on the corner of their towel. They looked on in horror as he paused to scratch himself enthusiastically before continuing his constant heavy breathing.
Timmy, of course, is a dog….
…and he definitely doesn’t have fleas. I should know, I checked before I let the kids pat him.
Rarotonga is the perfect blend of modern niceties without the annoying chaos that goes with it. Chickens roam freely, yet the cars and scooters that manoeuvre around them are modern. Nobody drives over 50km per hour, and even slower in ‘town’ areas. As soon as you turn off the circle island road, you are blessed with the lush greenness of the islands interior.
This is where you experience the real Rarotonga. It’s where you find great hiking tracks, a waterfall to swim under, and locals that happily share their fruit tree’s bounty with you.
For families on a budget, renting a house for the week can be a lot cheaper than a resort. We recommend the White House Apartment which is within 100 metres of Aroa Beach, one of the most beautiful on the island.
Atiu
For Adventurous Families Who Love Nature
Atiu Island is ideal for adventurous families who would prefer to spend time outdoors. Taking less than an hour by plane from Rarotonga, a sign at the airports reads …
‘’Would passengers please hand in their AK47’s, bazookas, grenades, explosive and nukes to the pilot on boarding the aircraft. Airport Management thanks you for your cooperation.”
It seems the residents of Atiu have a sense of humour!
The coastline is characterised by makatea (fossilised coral), rising over six metres in spots. Nestled between these cliffs are completely deserted, white sandy coves to explore. Families can hire either scooters or a car, and drive the circle island track exploring the many deserted beaches.
Atiu’s Reef is stunning …
Unlike Rarotonga, Atiu’s reef is fairly close to shore, resulting in a shallow lagoon, teeming with marine life. It’s incredibly dramatic and unique.
With a resident population of around 400, peak hour traffic consists of two scooters passing each other with a friendly wave. It’s possible to drive around the whole island and not see another vehicle until you reach the harbour, where you will find the local kids doing flips off the concrete walls into the ocean. You do have to watch out for fallen coconuts, wild pigs and wild goats though!
Adventurous families will love a tour to Anatakitaki Cave, which features stalagmites, stalactites, a high chambered natural cathedral and a freshwater underground cave pool that you can swim in by candlelight! The cave is also the only known home to the very rare Kopeka, a fascinating bird that never lands outside the cave and basically thinks its a bat.
Atiu is an unspoilt paradise with fresh air, clear ocean water and squeaky clean sand. There is no large township and no light pollution dulling your view of the night sky.
We recommend staying at the Atiu Villas, giving you the perfect blend of getting off-the-beaten-track yet still staying somewhere comfortable.
Aitutaki
For Families Who Want a Slice of Paradise
Aitutaki is often touted as one of the world’s most beautiful lagoons. As you first catch sight of its turquoise waters from the plane window, you will understand why.
A lot of people visit on the popular Air Tahiti day trip from Rarotonga, but all who do are disappointed they didn’t plan to stay longer.
Most of the activities on Aitutaki centre around the lagoon, which is so large that Rarotonga, the largest island in the Cooks, can fit inside it. Aitutaki is dwarfed by it at just 18 square kilometres in size.
Highlights include snorkelling, swimming, day trips to beautiful motus, getting your passport stamped on One Fight Island and hiking up to the island’s highest point for 360 degree views of the lagoon.
If you were to ask my kids about the highlights, they would tell you it’s the crab racing! We raced crabs on every island we visited but for some reason, the ones on Aitutaki seem to be on steroids.
Basically, you draw a circle in the sand…
….place your chosen hermit crab in the middle, and wait to see if it has what it takes to make it out of the circle first.
After a brief argument on who was naming their crab ‘’Speedy’’, in which I lost, I settled on ‘’Crabby McCrab Face’’ and we all stood around cheering our crabs on.
‘’Go Crabby McCrab Face! … Go Speedy! … Go Lightning!’’
My son was jumping up and down in excitement in nothing but swimming undies. His crab had a shell about the size of my fist as he was convinced that bigger meant faster.
I’ve chosen the smallest crab, selected because it’s too small to nip me. It’s no larger than the tip of my finger and is by far, the most energetic crab in the circle. Crabby McCrab Face is out of the circle and making a break for freedom before the other two have even hit the halfway point.
So racing crabs probably isn’t high on the parents bucket list, but it is a great activity to occupy the kids while you relax on the white sands of tropical paradise.
We recommend Are Kapakapa for a holiday home or Kuru Club for an eco-friendly beachfront experience. The luxurious Pacific Resort Aitutaki seem to be only welcoming children over the age of 12. This is really disappointing because families with younger kids like to splurge sometimes too!
Mauke
For Families Who Love Adventuring off the Beaten Path
Mauke is perfect for adventuring off the beaten path whilst still enjoying the comforts of showers, toilets and a comfortable bed. With a coastline similar to the island of Atiu, expect to find numerous deserted coves as you set off to explore the 18km circle island track either by scooter or car.
On the island of Mauke, families can trek through the jungle to swing from the roots of what is possibly the South Pacific’s Largest Banyan Tree, jump from harbour walls into the ocean, swim in a saltwater and freshwater cave pool and visit one of the most unique churches on the planet. You can even go in search of a shipwreck!
“Trust me, I’ve been swinging from this tree since I was a little boy!” said Clem, our charismatic tour guide on the island of Mauke. Clem is nearly 60, so his decades of experience swinging from this tree gives me confidence it won’t break!
I lean back and push my legs out in front of me before I can talk myself out of it. Nothing happens. I move about a metre.It turns out I’ve forgotten how to swing from a tree. Clem comes to the rescue by giving me a push, and away I go gliding slowly through the huge root system of this giant tree. The kids yell out encouraging words such as, “don’t let go, it will really hurt if you fall off!”
Having old fashioned fun is a requirement here …
…. as TV reception is virtually non-existent and if you want to check emails, you will need to stand in front of the telecommunications shop in town. There are no pesky signs forbidding you not to swing from trees, jump from the harbour walls into the ocean, or demand that footwear must be worn. In fact, most of the kids here don’t wear shoes. Why would you need shoes on an island that has no snakes?
Out of the 15 islands in the Cooks, the island of Mauke is referred to as the garden island. Wild flowers grow unchecked, and we were told that our welcome lei is likely to be particularly beautiful. I am happy to report that our goodbye lei was even more impressive and was given with firm instructions to one day return. After five days, our new friends would not accept a goodbye, and insisted we would see them again.
I recommend staying at Ri’s Retreat or Tiare Cottages. There is no such thing as 5-star on Mauke but the accommodation is welcoming, comfortable and clean. Accommodation can be booked independently through Island Hopper Vacations or via a 2-night flight and package deal with Air Rarotonga.
Resources for Your Cook Islands Adventure
When to Visit the Cook Islands
The Cook Islands enjoys a year-round tropical environment. The best time to visit depends on your personal preference. Many Australian come in June to August to escape Winter but I think April and May are great as the wet season is just finishing up but it’s not yet peak season.
Resources for Booking Your Cook Island Holiday
Flights
All international flights land in Rarotonga. Try searching on Trip.com for a great deal on flights to Rarotonga.
Internal flights around the Cook Islands need to be booked with Air Rarotonga. Mauke, Atiu and Aitutaki are less than one hour flight from Rarotonga.
Accommodation
The White House Villa is a great self-contained family-friendly apartment near Aroa Beach on Rarotonga.
