As we climb into the open-sided Buffalo Safari Jeep at Custer State Park, our driver points to a pile of thick grey blankets on the seat beside us. ‘’You’re going to need these,’’ he says, taking his Stetson cowboy hat off and placing it beside him in the front.
I’m already wearing a knitted beanie, down jacket and various layers, but for some reason, chose to wear my oldest, faded jeans with rips at the knees. Whilst fashionable in the 90’s when, like everyone else, I was trying to look like I “didn’t care’’, today they are a poor choice. My knees are freezing.
As the jeep pulls out of Custer State Park Resort’s State Game Lodge, I note with fascination that the morning snow has now melted, revealing a green carpet. Pulling the blanket onto my legs, I secretly hope that we might see Kevin Costner riding on horseback over the rolling Black Hills of South Dakota. Much of Dances With Wolves was filmed here in the Midwest, and I’m told that Costner has a soft spot for the area, assisting in preserving the region’s nature and heritage.
One of the USA’s largest, Custer State Park comprises 71,000 acres of wild rolling plains dotted with giant buffalo, granite peaks, open ranges and clear mountain waters. It’s a wonderful place to bring your family and enjoy old-fashioned outdoor fun, including swimming, fishing, relaxing, wildlife, hiking, and adventure.
Prairie dogs are not as exciting as they sound …
My Dances With Wolves daydream is broken by the cackle of the Jeep’s speaker. ‘’I’m going to show you some prairie dogs first,’’ our tour guide says in a western drawl. His wife, also a guide, has climbed in beside him, the Stenton now on her lap.
Coming from Australia, I have no clue what a prairie dog is, but it sounds exciting …. like some kind of wild wolf that hunts buffalo.
The jeep turns up a side road and, after driving slowly through a small herd of magnificently large, shaggy buffalo who heed no attention to the jeep, pulls up on the side of the road. Our guide is now pointing to what is possibly one of the cutest animals I have ever seen. It turns out a more adequate name for prairie dogs would be prairie squirrels. These little creatures look nothing like a dog, and unfortunately for them, are prey to everything else in the park.
Prairie dogs are named as such because they make a sound similar to a dog’s bark and when I hear it, I can’t hold back my laughter. Even their ‘’bark’’ is cute. If Alvin and the Chipmunks had a dog – it would sound like this.
As the snow begins to fall gently from the sky, we pull into the Custer State Park Visitor Centre and make a quick dash to the front door. The warmth is inviting and the exhibit is fascinating with a great interactive feature that shows how the bison react if you approach them too closely.
Don’t get close to the buffalo …
Standing on distance markers on the ground, I watch the buffalo on the TV-screen in front of me appear more agitated the closer I get to him. At 12 metres (40 feet), he gets ready to charge, clearly I am too close. It’s an unconventional approach to safety that’s ingenious for visually showing families how to keep a safe distance from the park’s most popular residents.
I’ll be honest, it takes me a while to tire of this activity and as a result, I’m one of the last to file into the 100 seat theatre to watch the 20-minute movie that plays every half hour. The movie gives a wonderful overview of the area and the narrator’s voice is strangely familiar…. and dare I say, strangely appealing. About five minutes in the ‘Aha’ moment happens, it’s Kevin Costner’s voice.
After the movie, I find myself back in the visitor centre staring out the window at a light blanket of snow falling on a flock of turkeys. Oh god, they must be so cold, I think.
It’s not always cold here….
Custer State Park can be visited in any season and in fact, I look forward to visiting again in the Summer months with the kids when it’s warm enough to swim. You see, coming from a sub-tropical climate, I relished the idea of visiting during winter for the chance to see snow.
The Custer State Park Resort offers a variety of accommodation spread across the park, each one entirely unique. Built in 1920, The State Game Lodge is a native stone and wood lodge and has a distinctly presidential feel.
There is also Blue Bell Lodge wish is aptly described as, “like the cowboys of old but with modern amenities”, Legion Lake Lodge, Creekside Lodge and the crown Jewel, Sylvan Lake Lodge. Other luxury cabins are spread around the park. In addition to the cabins and lodges, Custer State Park has no less than nine campgrounds near fresh flowing streams, mountain lakes or in the midst of a ponderosa pine forest.
There are a number of scenic drives in the area but one of the most popular is the Wildlife Loop, which travels through 28km (18miles) of open grasslands and pine-speckled hills to spot numerous wildlife including buffalo, pronghorn, deer, elk, coyotes, burros, prairie dogs, eagles, hawks and a variety of other birds.
If like me, you are visiting without wheels, the open-air Buffalo Safari Jeep Tour is a great alternative. If you’re up for a good old fashioned family-friendly hayride and hoedown, it’s worth joining in the Hayride & Chuckwagon Cookout, which completes a partial tour of the loop but also includes great food with “all the fixin’s” and classic country music.
Hiking in the snow but no buffalo to be seen …
In an attempt to snap some buffalo pics (at a safe distance), I head out for a hike with Samantha, a lady whom I met the day before at the State Game Lodge when checking in. Originally from Australia, but now based in California and working in the travel industry, I was drawn to her familiar accent and was chuffed when she asked if I wanted to attempt a hike.
We head out on the 6.5 km (4.2 mile) lovers leap trail and after an uphill start, I begin to regret the decision. However, once I reach the peak of the hill and lovers leap lookout, the snow – which had been threatening – begins to fall softly.
I stand, hands on my hips, getting my breath back, and watch mesmerised as it falls gently from the sky to land on my thick jacket. My camera is quickly tucked under my clothes to protect it. The moment was nothing short of beautiful and a truly memorable experience for someone who has spent 99% of their life in warmth.
The rest of the hike is easier going with some fun creek crossings, beautiful scenery and one giant buffalo dropping which I managed to stand in. When I returned, tired yet satisfied, I felt slightly peeved to spot four shaggy buffalo standing around in front of the lodge in the warmth of the sun.
I just hiked 6.5 km to photograph a buffalo, only to find them in the very same spot I began my hike.
There is so much to do at Custer State Park …
There are plenty of activities for families here such as swimming, horseback trail riding, paddleboarding, canoes, kayaks and even a Jr. Naturalist Program throughout the summer.
Custer State Park in South Dakota is one of the few destinations I have experienced that offer an ‘’old fashioned family holiday’’. The kind that will get them away from the screen and linger in your child’s memory long into adulthood. The kind they will want to recreate with their own children decades from now.
Information on Custer State Park and Resort
Custer State Park is open year-round but is limited between October and April. An entrance license is required of all park visitors and can be purchased at any of the five entrance stations.
Visitors can fly into Rapid Springs airport and transfer to Custer State Park Resort. Transfers can be organised through Black Hills Adventure Tours.
If driving to Custer State Park on a road trip, google maps will lead the way!
Important Links
FAQ: Custer State Park & Custer State Park Resort
Custer State Park is famous for its roaming buffalo herds, stunning Black Hills scenery, scenic drives like the Wildlife Loop, hiking trails, lakes, and classic American outdoor experiences. It’s one of the largest and most beautiful state parks in the USA.
Summer (June-August) is the most popular time thanks to warm weather, swimming, and family activities. Winter is magical if you want snow, fewer crowds, and a completely different experience – but some facilities are closed or have reduced hours.
Yes. Custer State Park Resort offers unique lodges, cabins, and campgrounds inside the park, including the historic State Game Lodge, Blue Bell Lodge, Legion Lake Lodge, Creekside Lodge and Sylvan Lake Lodge.
Yes – it’s one of the most popular ways to see wildlife up close, especially if you don’t have a car. Guides share local history, wildlife insight, and help you safely spot buffalo, prairie dogs, burros, and more.
An entrance license is required for all visitors and can be purchased at any of the park’s five entrance stations. Fees vary by season, so it’s best to check the official Custer State Park website for current prices.
Absolutely. Families can enjoy swimming, hiking, horseback riding, paddleboarding, canoeing, wildlife spotting, scenic drives, and the summer Junior Naturalist Program.
Yes – but always keep a safe distance. Buffalo are wild animals and can charge if approached. The Visitor Center has an excellent interactive exhibit showing exactly how close is “too close.”
Most visitors fly into Rapid City Regional Airport (not Rapid Springs) and drive or arrange a transfer to the park. If you’re road tripping, Google Maps will take you straight to the entrance stations.
Yes, especially from late autumn through early spring. Winter brings stunning snow-covered landscapes but also colder temperatures and reduced services, so pack warm gear.
Yes – buffalo, prairie dogs, deer, and other animals are active year-round, though sightings can vary depending on weather and time of day.
Definitely. It’s a fun, family-friendly experience with a tractor-pulled hayride, cowboy-style dinner, music, and great views.
Yes. While some trails are more challenging, families can enjoy gentler options such as the Sylvan Lake Shore Trail and parts of the Lovers Leap Trail.
Where to next?
📌 Save this article to Pinterest so you’ll have it handy when planning your own trip.
Let me know what you think!