Organic chocolate bliss at Freshwater Plantation, Aore Island
Can you think of anything better than chocolate bliss balls on a tropical island? This isn’t just any tropical island though. This is Freshwater Plantation on Aore Island in Vanuatu! The guilt of overindulging is somewhat lessened by the knowledge that the key ingredients were organically grown and processed less than 200 metres from where I am currently sitting. In fact, I should probably eat another one since they are so healthy.
I wasn’t sure what to expect earlier when I sat down on the wooden bench seat of the boat. Five minutes is all it takes to cross the waters between Espiritu Santo and Aore Island in Vanuatu to reach Freshwater Plantation, an organic cacao plantation with a lot to offer.
Adam, with his groovy hair and large smile, welcomed us aboard and I was pleasantly surprised at how clean and modern the small boat was. The wind in my hair, the sun on my face and the incredible deep blue-green colour of the channel between the two islands made for an extremely pleasant crossing.
The first things I notice is a floating pontoon just asking to be jumped off …
The first thing I notice upon arriving at Freshwater Plantation on Aore Island is the floating pontoon next to a small dock and jetty. Ripley (aged four) stares at it longingly and I just know he will ask to jump off it later. The chairs are facing back towards the green mainland of Santo. I’m not sure if I want to relax in the chairs or jump off the pontoon myself. Ok, I probably won’t jump. However, I will most definitely attempt to ease myself off the side gracefully.
If I thought Santo looked green, Freshwater Plantation and Aore Island takes ‘lush green’ to a whole new level. This organic plantation is a feast for the eyes for garden lovers. I set my bag down at the restaurant and organise myself, slathering sunscreen on the kids for the much anticipated ‘Plantation Ramble’ walking tour that we will be doing this morning.
There is only one dirt road on Aore Island and it was built by the US Army in WWII seven decades ago. Our knowledgeable guide James, leads the way as we stroll across it and step into the cacao plantation. I was expecting to see rows upon rows of cacao plants and coconut trees. Instead, we are treated to an almost jungle like setting, with cacao and paw paw trees randomly lining the side of the walking track, which looks to have recently been mowed in.
There is a lot of WWII history on the island of Espiritu Santo…
James points out a weedy looking plant growing among the grass out the back of Freshwater Plantation, Aore Island. It’s a variety of mimosa and here in Vanuatu, it’s known as ‘signal grass’. The interesting thing about signal grass is that when it’s touched, the small leaves wither and curl up before your very eyes. It was apparently introduced by the Americans during the war to see where the Japanese had been walking. The kids enjoy poking it to watch it curl up. Unfortunately, now it’s hard to get them to walk without stopping every few metres.
I have only ever seen cacao in powdered form as I spoon it into a mug, or better still, in Cadbury chocolate block form. I am surprised at how large the cacao plant pods actually are. Even more surprising, is the sweet but tangy taste and the gooey texture around the cacao seeds themselves.
The jungle like greenery thins out and the path inclines as we head towards a two-chambered cave with an interesting history. This is one of the little-known highlights of visiting Freshwater Plantation on Aore Island. The first part of the cave is pleasant, with antique bottles in a crevice at the back of the cave. James admits that beer and kava celebrations are sometimes held for local functions within this first cave.
The second section of the cave is connected via a slightly swaying suspension bridge. Flashlights are handed out and the unmistakable smell of guano becomes overpowering as we cross over. Is this smelly fertiliser the secret to the thriving plants here at Freshwater Plantation, Aore Island?
I decide not to tell the kids about the cockroaches…
Bats swarm noisily over my head and I regret not wearing enclosed shoes as I feel something wet hit the top of my foot. I shine the torch towards the ground to inspect the damage and are startled at the amount of cave cockroaches on the ground. We are carrying the kids and I make the decision not to put them down. I don’t linger much longer in this cave.
The walk takes us higher up to a lookout and lining the path are organic coffee plants. In earlier times, the village chief would remain in the cave whilst others stood post at this look out to watch for intruders. I relish the faint aroma of the coffee plants after leaving the unpleasant-smelling bat cave.
The leisurely ramble through the grounds of Freshwater Plantation on Aore Island continues past an impressively large banyan tree with an estimated age of around 70 years. Nearby is a pretty vegetable and herb garden which puts my home efforts to shame. There are neat rows of produce with quaint wooden labels.
Nearly everything is farm-to-plate here…
The vegetables grown here on Aore Island are used at Freshwater Plantation’s restaurant. I can’t wait to get back and eat a true, fresh farm-to-plate meal…or plantation-to-plate meal in this case.
After a quick visit to the hut and concrete tables used for drying and processing the cacao into a useable form, we head towards the animal enclosures. A nanny goat had recently given birth and the local children are only too happy to catch a little kid so that we can enjoy a cuddle.
Heading back to the restaurant, I reflect on how relaxing and peaceful the whole experience has been. We splurge on a three-course meal and concede that it is, by far, the best meal we have eaten in Vanuatu.
Even if you don’t take a tour of the facilities, it’s worth visiting Freshwater Plantation just for the restaurant.
So, this is how I came to be eating organic chocolate bliss balls on a tropical island. I still can’t think of anything more enjoyable than Freshwater Plantation on Aore Island right now, except maybe the thought of a quick dip in the water near the floating pontoon before we leave.
Getting to Freshwater Plantation on Aore island
Freshwater Plantation is located on Aore Island, a short five-minute trip across the water from the main town of Luganville on the Island of Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu.
Check out the Freshwater Plantation website for more information.
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Accommodation
Compare accommodation on the Island of Espiritu Santo here.
