A coconut tree lined highway that ends with the aqua waters and white sand of a deserted tropical beach. This is Port Olry on the island of Espiritu Santo and it’s Vanuatu at its finest.
Technically, it wasn’t entirely deserted. No more than twenty metres further on from the coconut tree that I was watching sway gently in the breeze, a well-fed cow was taking a siesta under the shade of a large banyan tree. I didn’t mind sharing this paradise with a few cows who seemed to be minding their own business.
Having been fortunate enough to visit French Polynesia a few years earlier, this is what I imagine it looked like before the luxury resorts moved in. The best thing about Port Olry, though, is that the locals haven’t allowed it here. And with a flight time of less than three hours from Brisbane, this place feels like one of the world’s best-kept secrets.
I swayed gently in the hammock fronting Chez Louis Restaurant at Port Olry. You’ll find it around an hour’s drive from the main town of Luganville on the Island of Espiritu Santo. Trillian (nearly two years old) happily laid with me, which was unusual for her. I was unsure if it was the location, the gentle swaying, or the biscuit I gave her. Possibly all three, but most probably the biscuit.
The top-quality lunch of crab, chips and salad (from plantation to plate) I had just enjoyed at the restaurant ensured I was too full to move, so the snorkelling we had planned would have to wait.
Tree House Bungalows
Our accommodation was pre-booked 15 minutes down the road at Lonnoc Beach Bungalows. However, I noted with interest that Chez Louis restaurant has simple yet extremely appealing bungalows to stay in. The regret and longing were real when I spotted a tree house bungalow no more than 30 metres from the calm water’s edge.
Where is Port Olry?
Port Olry is a one-hour drive from the main town of Luganville on the island of Espiritu Santo in Vanuatu. There is only one main road, so getting lost is not a problem. You have reached your destination when the sealed road turns into a dirt road.
The village at Port Olry is completely self-sufficient. The locals don’t have a choice; power has not reached this far down the island. They appear to manage perfectly fine by utilising both solar and coconut-oil generated electricity. The town has a school, a church and a few small local shops with basic supplies.
Accommodation at Port Olry
Accommodation in the general area consists of simple family-run bungalows that are lacking in luxury, but oozing in appeal. In fact, it’s the lack of luxuries that make this place so special. Most of the accommodation has traditional thatched roofs that do a sufficient job of keeping out the weather when an evening storm rolls in after a perfectly sunny day. I thoroughly enjoyed watching a few of these quick visiting storms from the front porch of our bungalow.
We stayed at Lonnoc Beach bungalows, set around 30 metres back from Lonnoc Beach around a ten-minute drive from Port Olry. The bungalows have a bed, mosquito nets, protection from the weather, toilets and cold showers. Hygiene is not an issue as you can still take showers, wash hands and use a flushing toilet like normal, but you won’t get luxuries such as TV and fridges in your room.
The simplicity of the bungalows are reflected in the price, which makes travelling to Port Olry quite affordable for families. If you really can’t do without the extras, you can always visit on a day trip whilst taking advantage of the accommodation options back up in the main town of Luganville.
Port Olry with kids
Port Olry is a fantastic place to visit with kids!
The water is warm, clear and calm, so it’s great for little ones who aren’t confident swimmers yet. Play in the sand while your food is being cooked and nap in a hammock afterwards. And while the menu is limited in the few restaurants that are here, you can still enjoy hot chips, smoothies and fruit. So fussy eaters won’t go hungry.
For older kids, there is fantastic snorkelling. When it’s low tide, you can even walk to some small islands for more snorkelling and exploring. They probably won’t like the lack of WiFi available, but hopefully, it will be an excellent opportunity to unplug and reconnect.
Where to next?
Let me know what you think!