The Ultimate Guide To The Awesome East MacDonnell Ranges
The East MacDonnell Ranges can be found stretching around 150km east of Alice Springs. However, don’t assume they are the same as the West Macdonnell Ranges, it’s twin found on the other side of Alice. Home to an old gold town, Aboriginal rock art, dramatic landscapes, charming homesteads and a sandy river bed teeming with red garnets, the East Macs are one outback adventure to add to your family bucket list.
(Although the first 75km of the East MacDonnell Ranges is sealed, you will need a 4WD to travel any further.)
Starting from Alice Springs along the Ross Highway, here’s what you can expect to experience in the East MacDonnell Ranges:
Jessi Gap and Emily Gap
Drive around 15km from Alice Springs along the Ross Highway and you will soon come upon Emily Gap. This sacred site in the East MacDonnell Ranges features Aboriginal rock paintings a quick stroll from the carpark. The paintings tell the Arrernte people’s story of the caterpillar dreaming.
A further 10 minutes up the road is Jessie Gap, another Aboriginal rock art site. It’s only a five minutes stroll into the gap to see the sacred paintings here. This is a great stop for a picnic as there are picnic tables, BBQ’s and a drop toilet.
Taking photographs of the rock paintings is not allowed so I can’t show you what they look like. Nevertheless, we all thought they were fascinating. The gap in the gorges are pretty to stroll through and if you visit after some rain, there is a good chance of spotting wild budgerigars.
Credit – Jessica Palmer
Corroboree Rock
Corroboree Rock can be found around 50km from Alice Springs in the East MacDonnell Ranges. It’s an important sacred men’s site for the Arrernte people. Take a short stroll around the rock (a dolomite outcrop) and read the interpretive signage to learn a little about the significance of this place. It doesn’t reveal too much as that information is restricted to senior Aboriginal men.
Trephina Gorge
Further along the Ross Highway at around 80km from Alice Springs is Trephina Gorge. The last few kilometres into the gorge is unsealed but usually still accessible by 2WD. After Trephina Gorge it’s 4Wd only!
Trephina Gorge features Aboriginal rock art, camp sites (pay on arrival) walking trails and dramatic scenery. The easiest walk here is the gorge stroll at only 500 metres return. It takes around 20 minutes and you stroll to a semi-permanent waterhole within Trephina Gorge. Further information on the other hikes, which range from 2km – 9km, can be found on the NT Government Website here.
There are actually two gorges that cut through the East MacDonnell Ranges here, Trephina Gorge and John Hayes Rock Hole. Getting into John Hayes Rock Hole is by 4WD only or through a 9km hike called the Trephina Ridgetop Walk. If the waterhole has not dried up at John Hayes, you can also swim.
There are picnic tables, water and a toilet at the Trephina Gorge day use area. The camping areas (both the Gorge Campgound and the Bluff Campground) have drop toilets, fire pits, BBQs, tables and water. There is also a 4WD only campground at John Hayes Rock Hole.
The largest Ghost Gum in Central Australia can be found near John Hayes Rockhole!
Credit – Jessica Palmer
Ross River Resort
Just 86km from Alice Springs, Ross River Resort just oozes outback character. The original Loves Creek Homestead was built here in the 1890’s and it wasn’t until 1957 that two brothers set to work rebuilding. They added accommotion and other infrastructure. It’s gone through a few owners since then and is now a wonderful oasis in the outback to visit or rest your head.
Here you will find rustic en suite cabins, camping sites, bunkhouse accommodation, a swimming pool, bar and dining room, conference facilities, bush walking, bird watching, fuel and more.
N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park
N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park can be found around 90 km east of Alice Springs in the East MacDonnell Ranges. There are over 5,800 Aboriginal rock engravings here!
It’s a bit of an adventure to drive in with shallow water and sandy creek bed crossings. Not many people visit this area so you really are getting “off the beaten path” here in the East MacDonnell Ranges. The turnoff to the nature park is near Ross River.
Camping is available here but there is only space for a few campers. The campsite offers a drop toilet, fire pits and tables but as that its a nature park, you aren’t allowed to collect firewood.
Hike up to the gorge to see many of the engravings!
Arltunga
The Arltunga Historical Reserve can be found around 117km past Alice Springs and some families take a day trip specifically to visit as its so interesting. Arltunga is the now ruins of what was Central Australia’s first town. Gold was discovered in 1887 so of course, a town popped up in its wake. However, it was no easy task getting here. Miners has to travel around 600km from the Oodnadatta railhead (mostly on foot) to seek their fortune and at the time, Alice Springs was not much more than an outpost.
Families should visit the information centre before exploring the ruins. This will help to understand what they are looking at once they set out. Toilets and BBQs are available here.
Altunga is great because you can actually walk among the ruins, including the gold mines themselves. Find the restored police station, jail and other infrastructure in lesser states. Kids will love the old mining equipment, some of which has been set up as a hands-on display.
I bet you’re wandering if you can fossick here right? Well you can’t right here however, a fossicking area is located outside the reserve.
Arltunga is not to be missed in the East MacDonnell ranges!
Credit – Jessica Palmer
Ruby Gap Nature Park
Getting to Ruby Gap Nature Park is an adventure in itself with multiple creek crossings. According to google maps, Ruby Gap is around 152km past Alice Springs and should take just a little over 2 hours (or 1 hour past Arltunga). In reality, it took us 2 hours to get there from Arltunga alone. The track changes with the seasons and it was rough when we visited!
Ruby Gap is beautiful and by far, the highlight of the East MacDonnell Ranges. It’s not just the high gorge walls, swimming holes, sandy creek bed and the fun of driving along said creek bed. It’s because it’s incredibly easy to find red garnets here. I’m a sucker for a campsite that involves gemstones!
Ruby Gap Nature Park was the site of an East MacDonnell Ranges “ruby rush” in the 19th Century. The rubies were later found to be red garnets (which are worth far less). Regardless, it’s still a lot of fun finding them.
A high clearance 4WD and experience is required because as you reach the park entrace, the track drops into the Hale River. The river bed varies between deep sand, rough rocky sections and often water holes. The track goes for around 5km until you see a sign that advises not to drive any further.
From here you can hike into Glen Annie Gorge for a swim but I couldn’t tell you how far it is as we didn’t make it that far.
Camping is available for a fee but there are no facilities. You must be self-sufficient with your own toilet, cooking equipment, food and water etc. There are no official campsites, rather you 4WD along and beside the Hale River until you find the perfect spot.
Credit – Jessica Palmer
Hale River Homestead
Around 128km past Alice Springs (when not detouring to Ruby Gap) you will find the Hale River Homestead. It’s located on the well known Binns Tracks in the East MacDonnell Ranges. However, the easiest way to find it is to head to “The Gardens” and keep an eye out for signs that say “Hale River Homestead and/or Old Ambalindum”.
The homestead has an amazing cafe with plenty of character and great food. Accommodation is available here and includes camping, powered caravan sites, self-contained accommodation, a cottage and a bunkhouse. Families can head out on a bush walk, drive to Frederick’s lookout for some amazing views of the ranges and just relax in the wide open space.
It’s in a great spot to break up the drive before the final stop at Gem Tree.
Gem Tree
Gem Tree is located on the Plenty Highway in Central Australia just north of the East MacDonnell Ranges. Follow the Binns Track from the Hale River Homestead until it spits you out, red and dusty on the highway. The staff at Hale River will point you in the right directions as the maps are conflicting. If you were to drive straight from Alice Springs along this 4WD route without stopping, it would take around 3 hours and 30 minutes (231km).
If you wish to visit Gem Tree via 2WD, you can do so from Alice Springs along the main highways. This quicker trip will take around 1 hour and 30 minutes (138km).
Gem Tree is a wonderful park with all the facilities including fuel, great food, showers, toilets, washing machines and a massive camp area with both powered and unpowered sites. Cabins are also available for those not camping. If you order dinner from the front office they will ever deliver it via quad bike to your campsite. I recommend the burgers!
The highlight of Gem Tree are the fossicking tours on offer. Choose between red garnets or zircons and head out on a tag-a-long tour to learn the ropes. All equipment is supplied. If you are struggling with the heat, I would chose the garnet tour. They are much less labour intensive to dig up.
Credit – Jessica Palmer
Where to Stay in The East MacDonnell Ranges
As mentioned above there are numerous accommodation options in the East MacDonnell Ranges.
Camping is available at:
- Trephina Gorge
- Ruby Gap Nature Park
- N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park
Both camping and cabin style accommodation is available at:
- Ross River Resort
- Hale River Homestead
- Gem Tree
Need to know
Phone reception is non-existent in many areas of the East MacDonnell Ranges. This means you will need to download maps before you go or have a good old fashioned paper map. Once you get past Arltunga, Google Maps can be a little inaccurate with differing road names to the paper Hema maps.
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Resources for booking your getaway to Central Australia
Getting to the Red Centre of Australia
Most capital cities have flights to Central Australia, with flights landing in Alice Springs and Yulara, a smaller airport near Ayers Rock Resort. Find great deals on flights to Central Australia at Trip.com.
Getting around Central Australia
Car hire is available in Alice Springs. Compare car hire prices across major brands at Discover Cars. Don’t forget you will need a 4WD to drive the Mereenie Road Loop or see the entirety of the East MacDonnell Ranges.
Accommodation in Central Australia
Ayers Rock Resort in the obvious choice at Uluru Kata-Tjuta National Park, with a range of accommodations from camping to hotel rooms. For the ultimate in luxury at Uluru, stay at Longitude 131.
Kings Canyon Resort is a great choice for visiting Kings Canyon in the Watarrka National Park. Their glamping tents are divine, but the campgrounds are well-serviced if you’re on a camping road trip.
Glen Helen is the only non-camping option available in the West MacDonnell Ranges. Camping is also available at Ellery Creek, Ormiston Gorge, Finke 2 Mile and Redbank Gorge. Alternatively, you can book accommodation in Alice Springs and easily day-trip out to the West Macs.
If exploring the East MacDonnell ranges, check out Hale River Homestead and Ross River Homestead.
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