The Mereenie Loop
Red Centre Way from Alice Springs to Uluru
Whether you call it the Mereenie Loop or the Red Centre Way, it means the same thing – an unforgettable back route from Alice Springs to Uluru in the Red Centre of Australia.
The Mereenie Loop is a truly memorable road trip. Why? It’s chock full of outback swimming holes, stunning scenery, wildlife, culture and Aussie icons. Not to mention plenty of opportunities to make great family memories.
Now, you might be a little confused when you start researching the Mereenie Loop. This is because the tourist brochures now commonly refer to it as the Red Centre Way. Despite this, many travellers still call it the Mereenie Loop, named so because part of the journey traverses the Mereenie Loop Rd, an off-road track that links the West MacDonnell Ranges and Kings Canyon.
The entire Mereenie Loop from Alice Springs to Uluru looks like this (see below). Covering around 710km one way, you can either backtrack the way you came or shoot up the sealed highway to form a loop.
4WD vs 2WD
Just so you know, a 4WD is required to drive the Mereenie Loop. Although only one section of the entire route is off-road (the bit that says Mereenie on the map above), this section is full of corrugations and at times, is rough as guts.
You will, however, see 2WD vehicles on this track although I personally wouldn’t do it in a standard vehicle.
Table of contents
- The Mereenie Loop
- Get this permit before you begin the Mereenie Loop
- Highlights of the Mereenie Loop road trip on YouTube
- How long does it take to drive the Mereenie Loop?
- The Mereenie Loop – a sort of itinerary
Get this permit before you begin the Mereenie Loop
Before you take this 4WD route, you need to be prepared. Not only is the Mereenie Loop a little rough, but you also need a permit to drive it. The permit is cheap as chips and can be purchased from the Visitor Information Centre in Alice Springs.
Highlights of the Mereenie Loop road trip on YouTube
How long does it take to drive the Mereenie Loop?
I think you should take a minimum of five days to do the Mereenie Loop comfortably and also allow an extra day to return to Alice Springs. It takes around 4.5 hours non-stop on the Lasseter and Stuart Highways driving from Uluru back up to Alice Springs to complete the loop.
We have done this road trip twice as a family. The first time we took 5 days and the second time we took 10 days. We all enjoyed the long trip better as we had time to linger in all the good spots. Like the beautiful swimming holes in the West MacDonnell Ranges.
The Mereenie Loop – a sort of itinerary
Below is a sort of itinerary for the Mereenie Loop. I say ”sort of” because I have not included time frames, allowing you to decide when and where to stop.
During peak times, you will need to book room accommodation or campsites in advance. Do this at Alice Springs, Glen Helen Gorge, Kings Canyon and Uluru in case you miss out.
Okay … here we go!
Begin at Alice Springs and explore the West MacDonnell Ranges
The West MacDonnell Ranges are amazing and will no doubt be a highlight of your Mereenie Loop road trip. Heading West from Alice Springs on Larapinta Drive, you will be surprised at the beautiful waterholes and gorges here.
For those camping, there is national park-style camping at the waterholes (see below). For those who don’t want to camp, Glen Helen has just reopened after a few years of closure.
Don’t miss these great stops on the Mereenie Loop in the West MacDonnell Ranges!
Simpsons Gap
Just 28km from Alice Springs along Larapinta Drive, Simpsons Gap is one of the most prominent gaps in the West MacDonnell Ranges and Mereenie Loop road trip. Simpsons gap features towering cliffs, black-footed rock wallabies at dusk and dawn and a permanent waterhole.
Standley Chasm (Angkerle Atwatye)
50km west of Alice Springs on Larapinta Drive, Standley Chasm is located in a private reserve owned by the Iwupataka Land Trust, a unique Aboriginal-owned and operated enterprise. The Angkerle Aboriginal Corporation is owned by the local community members who are direct descendants of the Arrernte Aboriginal people that have lived in this area for tens of thousands of years.
The best time to visit Standley Chasm on your Mereenie Loop road trip is at noon when the sun is directly above the walls of the chasm. The sun’s rays magically change the walls from a dullish brown to a glowing orange. There is a cafe on-site as well as picnic tables, BBQs, campsites and toilets.
See our post on Standley Chasm for more details.
Ellery Creek Big Hole
Turning onto Namatjira Drive from Larapinta Drive, Ellery Creek Big Hole is 90km west of Alice Springs. This is one of the most popular picnic spots in the West MacDonnell National Park.
Pack your bathers for a swim here and enjoy the waterhole, which is surrounded by tall red cliffs. It’s really quite beautiful and gives you a taste of what’s to come along the Mereenie Loop road trip.
Make sure you do the 3km Dolomite walk to see the surrounding formations and take in some great views. Camping is available for a fee using an honesty box system ($7.70 at the time of writing for a family) and there are toilets and BBQs available. The sites cannot be pre-booked and are first in first served.
Check out our post on Ellery Creek Big Hole for more information!
Serpentine Gorge
Following the same road west, Serpentine Gorge is 102km from Alice Springs. This narrow gap in the West MacDonnell Ranges creates a stunning oasis. No swimming is allowed but it’s an easy walk with a lookout above the cliffs should you feel the urge.
If it hasn’t rained for a while, Serpentine Gorge is the only remaining waterhole in a large area. As a result, there are plenty of great bird-watching opportunities. Don’t miss this nice side trip on the Mereenie Loop.
Ochre Pits
Just a little further west down Namatjira Drive are the vivid colours of the mineral Ochre Pits, which have been mined for generations by the local Aboriginal people.
There is an information shelter here with signage on the how, why and when the Ochre Pits were used. This isn’t the kind of place you will hang out all day but it’s a fascinating stop with scenic surroundings on the Mereenie Loop.
Ormiston Gorge
Now, this is definitely a place you will want to hang out and stay overnight at on your Mereenie Loop road trip. Ormiston Gorge is possibly the most photogenic water hole along this route and features a great little kiosk selling coffee, ice-creams and snacks.
It’s a stunning spot with a near-permanent waterhole that is just perfect for swimming. The swimming hole is around 500 metres from the visitor centre.
Take a short but sweaty 20-minute walk up to the lookout or hike the Ormiston Pound Walk, a 3-4 hour more challenging circuit.
Camping is available here with defined sites via an honesty box system and the bathrooms even include a hot shower that is large enough to take the kids in with you. The sites are first-in-first-served and cannot be pre-booked. The nightly rate for a family was $25 at the time of writing.
Check out our post on Ormiston Gorge for more information!
Credit – Jessica Palmer
Glen Helen Gorge and Glen Helen Resort
Glen Helen resort has recently re-opened after closing for a couple of years with thanks to Discovery Parks who invested the time and money into bringing it back to its former glory. This is great news for those on a Mereenie Loop road trip. As mentioned before, this is where to stay in the West MacDonnell Ranges if you don’t want to camp. Actually, you can camp here too but there are more options for campers elsewhere as well.
The gorge and waterhole itself are beautiful and even if you aren’t staying overnight here, it’s worth a stop in to check it out.
Finke 2 Mile
Finke 2 Mile is a hidden gem in the West MacDonnell Ranges. The sign is on the right just past Ormiston Gorge and Glen Helen and is absolutely 4WD access only. This is our favourite place to camp in the West Macs. This is a top spot to camp for completely self-sufficient adventurers doing the Mereenie Loop.
Camping fees are supposed to be payable ($7.70 for a family) via an honesty box system. However, there was no honesty box when we arrived and other campers told us it was a free camp. I’m still not sure whether it’s a free camp or paid camp but maybe just take some cash just in case.
Redbank Gorge
Redbank Gorge is stunning and is by far, our favourite swimming spot on Mereenie Loop. Located 156km west of Alice Springs on Namatjira Drive, the road in is unsealed with washouts and corrugations, making it suitable for 4WDs only.
There is a walk from the carpark to the waterhole where you can swim however conditions vary with the season. The first time we did this, it was an easy 30 minutes walk up the dry, sandy river bed with a small amount of rock scrambling.
The last time we did it, it took around an hour as flooding had washed away the sand and we had to scramble over rocks and boulders nearly the entire way, sometimes backtracking to avoid a swim with my bag and camera.
Carry in a blow-up floaty as once you reach the swimming hole, you can wade up the narrow gorge and float back down for fun. Nowhere else on the Mereenie Loop can you experience this!
There are two campgrounds here, the Woodland and the Ridgetop, and both have toilets, fire pits and picnic tables. National Park camping fees apply via an honesty box. We opted not to camp here as the sites are so far away from the swimming hole.
Tnoralla (Gosse Bluff)
Scientists believe that around 142.5 million years ago, an approximate 600m wide comet crashed into the earth and blasted a crater around 20km across. Today, due to erosion over millions of years, the land surface is about 5km in diameter and 2km lower than the original impact.
198km west of Alice Springs, Tnorala doesn’t get that many visitors and is of cultural significance to the Western Arrernte Aboriginal people. However, this is a hidden gem along the Mereenie Loop.
Once you see the sign and drive in, it is 4WD only over both soft sand and corrugation. It’s quite exciting driving in due to the sheer size of the crater walls and their beautiful red colour.
Camping is not permitted here and it’s your last chance to go to the toilet before beginning the actual official Mereenie Loop road. I highly recommend doing the short walk to the lookout. Check out our post on Tnoralla (Gosse Bluff) for more information.
The actual road called the Mereenie Loop Rd
As mentioned earlier, the actual road called the Mereenie Loop Road (which is a small section of the much larger road trip route by the same name) is unsealed and is your fun ”shortcut” through to Kings Canyon. Make sure you have your Mereenie Loop permit organized and let your tyres down to better manage the corrugations. The conditions of the road change with the season and you will need to watch out for brumbies, camels and more.
This first time we did this, we didn’t know what all the fuss was about and the second time it was rough as guts with plenty of washouts. Both times we rattled some hinge bolts loose on our rooftop tent.
Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park
Kings Canyon is amazing and I recommend doing both the Rim Walk (6km), which is a bit of a challenge, and the Kings Creek Walk (2.6km return) which is easy. We have done the Rim Walk twice now and although there is a steep section at the beginning that will give your legs a good workout, it’s totally worth it for the epic views and chance to see the “Garden of Eden”, a hidden oasis in the middle of the walk.
Read our post on Kings Canyon for more information on the walks. Regardless of what you do here, a stay in one of the glamping tents at Kings Canyon Resort will be a memorable experience.
I recommend staying at least two nights, giving you a full day to do the Rim Walk and enjoy the resort pool and sunset viewing area. Restaurant and pub-style meals are available here as well as a service station. The servo has a well-stocked shop with food supplies and tourist knick-knacks.
Head on down to Uluru – Kata Tjuta National Park
Head down Luritja Road and follow the signs to Uluru – Kata Tjuta National Park. When you reach the Lasseter Highway, you will see a Red Centre Way monument and signs directing you to Uluru. You can’t miss it! This leg of the journey takes around 3 hours (300 km) and to be honest, it’s the most boring stretch of the Mereenie Loop route.
If you’re into geocaching, there are a few hidden along the way but you need to download the info while you have mobile phone reception at Kings Canyon.
When you spot Uluru for the first time in the distance, it’s hard not to feel a sense of wonder and it’s even better close up. Pedalling around Uluru on pushbikes is a great option for families. Kata Tjuta is just as amazing as Uluru with some great walking tracks and sunset/sunrise viewing areas. Make sure to read our post on the Kata Tjuta Walks for more information.
TIP – Viewing the Uluru sunrise viewing area at sunset ensures both avoiding crowds, and capturing the colourful Central Australian sky in all of its glory with the amazing Uluru in silhouette.
Exploring the Uluru – Kata Tjuta National Park marks the end (sort of) of your amazing Mereenie Loop road trip. Head straight back up the Stuart Highway to Alice Springs (around 4.5 hours without stops) to finish up your holiday and complete the Mereenie Loop. If you have more time and a 4WD, consider exploring both the East MacDonnell ranges or Palm Valley back toward Alice Springs.
Looking for more awesome family holiday ideas?
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Resources for booking your getaway to Central Australia
Getting to the Red Centre of Australia
Most capital cities have flights to Central Australia, with flights landing in Alice Springs and Yulara, a smaller airport near Ayers Rock Resort. Find great deals on flights to Central Australia at Trip.com.
Getting around Central Australia
Car hire is available in Alice Springs. Compare car hire prices across major brands at Discover Cars. Don’t forget you will need a 4WD to drive the Mereenie Road Loop or see the entirety of the East MacDonnell Ranges.
Accommodation in Central Australia
Ayers Rock Resort in the obvious choice at Uluru Kata-Tjuta National Park, with a range of accommodations from camping to hotel rooms. For the ultimate in luxury at Uluru, stay at Longitude 131.
Kings Canyon Resort is a great choice for visiting Kings Canyon in the Watarrka National Park. Their glamping tents are divine, but the campgrounds are well-serviced if you’re on a camping road trip.
Glen Helen is the only non-camping option available in the West MacDonnell Ranges. Camping is also available at Ellery Creek, Ormiston Gorge, Finke 2 Mile and Redbank Gorge. Alternatively, you can book accommodation in Alice Springs and easily day-trip out to the West Macs.
If exploring the East MacDonnell ranges, check out Hale River Homestead and Ross River Homestead.
Tours and activities in Central Australia
Book your Central Australia tours and activities through Viator.
